Granada and a Day in the Park

This weekend we spent two days and one night in Granada, a city about 3 hours South East of Sevilla and tucked among the highest points of the Sierra Nevada. Granada (which means “palmagranite”) was the last Moorish stronghold during the Spanish Reconquista. It was the last city to fall under the Catholic Monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella, in 1492 and still retains a lot of Muslim influence.

We arrived Friday afternoon and a group of us went to see La Capilla Real, the royal chapel and burial place of Ferdinand and Isabella. Next to them lies their daughter, Joan la Loca (Joan the Mad), and her husband, Felipe I la Hermoso (Felipe I the Handsome). I actually just learned about Joan in my history class and we watched a movie about her. There are two theories to way she was considered “mad”. 1) She was truly in love with her Felipe and when she discovered his infildelity she went mad with jealously. Legend has it, that when Felipe died they had to take his body to Granada. During the long journey, Joan would open the coffin from time to time and hug her dead husband. Seeing this, the people began to say she was crazy. 2) Who knows if any of this is true, but some say the reason she was pronounced crazy was to keep her from ruling Spain. When her mother Isabella died, Joan should of taken the throne since she was the only living heir, but both her father and husband said she was in no mental condition to rule. Later, her own son would say the same thing and then take the crown for himself. This poor woman was betrayed by all the important men her life. I think I would of gone mad too.

That night the whole group climbed through the oldest barrio in the city, Albayzín, to a lookout point to see the Alhambra and the whole city below. Then we saw a flamenco show in a gypsy cave. I was literally inches from the performers, and could feel the whoosh of the dresses and the rhythm of their heels pounding into the floor. I've seen a few flamenco shows this past week and they have all been very different. This one was definitely more about the dancing and rhythm the dancers were making with their feet. It was incredible. It's such a sensual art form, because you use so many senses to experience it. You hear the music and singer, feel the beat, see the dancers in their colorful dresses (or dark suits, because men dance also), and you feel the passion of the whole performance stirring something in your soul. It's really that moving.

While I'm talking about flamenco, I want to clear up a stereotype I originally had: flamenco is not just a dance, it is a style of music. There is even a form of flamenco sung acapella. It can be happy or sad and usually involves a guitar player, lots of clapping, a singer, and possibly a dancer. There are many different styles and sometimes it's totally improvised. It's a very interesting art form and I'm looking forward to being here during Feria de April (April's Fair) when there's lots of flamenco going on. : )

That night I just chilled with a group of friends in a tapas bar. Tapas are like little appetizers that you buy to have with your drinks and are very popular here in Spain. They can be anything from fried vegetables to slices of ham. The cool thing about Granada is the tapas are free. Yay!

The next morning we went to the Alhambra (which means "red" in Arabic), which was a Moorish palace that was later taken over and added on to by the Catholic kings and queens. The saying goes, “Si mueres sin ver la Alhambra, no ha vivido” (If you die without seeing the Alhambra, you have not lived.) and now I know why. The Muslims are forbidden to decorate with the figures of humans or animals, but they love to decorate, and every inch of this place is covered with detailed cravings of shapes, flowers, and inscriptions that read, “There is no victory except with Alah.” Elaborate arches and ceilings are around every corner. Fountains were also very important to the Moors, because they symbolizes life and purity (as well as high status) and provide the music of the Alhambra. (Our hotel was actually built to mimic the Moorish style and a fountain outside on the patio lulled me to sleep.) We also visited the Generalife, which was the getaway gardens of the royalty. I will put up the pictures but they don't do the place justice. You will just all have to go and see it for yourselves. ; )

Then today, Abby and I spent a relaxing afternoon exploring Sevilla a little bit more. We went to Plaza de America and saw the Customs Museum. Then we walked through a beautiful park, Parque Maria Luisa, and found a sunny bench on which to sit and write in our journals for a bit. We checked out the Plaza de España, another famous site in Sevilla. I apologize for my lack of discriptions, but sometimes (and usually), a photo just says it best. Check them out and enjoy.

Hasta Luego!

Emily